Why Build Instead of Buy?
A pre-built EcoFlow DELTA 2 costs around $800 for 1,024Wh. You can build a 1,280Wh system — 25% more capacity — for $400–$600 in components. Plus you get a system you can repair, upgrade, and expand. Swap in a bigger battery later. Add a second solar panel. Replace a single component instead of the whole unit. And unlike sealed power stations, you understand exactly how your system works — which matters when it matters most.
What It Powers
With 1,280Wh of LiFePO4 and a 1,000W inverter, this DIY generator handles: phone charging (80+ charges), laptop charging (10–12 full charges), CPAP machine (2–3 nights), LED work lights (20+ hours), a portable fridge (12–18 hours), power tools for short bursts (drills, jigsaws), a small TV or projector (8–10 hours), and fan or small heater (6–8 hours). The 200W solar panel refills the battery in 5–7 hours of direct sun.
Component List
200W Portable Solar Panel (Foldable)
A foldable briefcase-style panel is ideal — it stores flat and sets up in seconds. Renogy 200W and ALLPOWERS 200W are solid options. Look for models with built-in kickstands and MC4 connectors.
LiFePO4 Battery — 12V 100Ah
The heart of the build. LiFePO4 is the only chemistry worth using: 3,000+ cycles, built-in BMS, handles heat. A 12V 100Ah unit gives you 1,280Wh — comparable to an EcoFlow DELTA 2. Ampere Time (LiTime), SOK, and Redodo are proven budget options.
MPPT Charge Controller (30A)
MPPT is worth the extra cost here — it squeezes 15–30% more power from the panel than PWM. The Renogy Rover 30A and Victron SmartSolar 100/30 are the go-to picks. Get one with Bluetooth for monitoring from your phone.
Pure Sine Wave Inverter (1000W–1500W)
Converts 12V DC to 120V AC for standard household outlets. Pure sine wave is required — modified sine can damage electronics. The GIANDEL 1000W and Renogy 1000W are reliable and affordable.
Rolling Cart or Toolbox
Something sturdy with wheels. A rolling mechanic's toolbox, Pelican-style case with wheels, or even a modified rolling cooler works. The battery weighs 25–30 lbs, so wheels matter. Harbor Freight and Milwaukee make solid rolling tool boxes.
Wiring Kit: 10 AWG Wire, Fuses, Bus Bars, Terminals
Heavier gauge than the chicken coop build — 10 AWG handles the higher current safely. Grab an inline fuse holder (30A) for the battery positive, ring terminals, and a small bus bar for clean wiring. Heat shrink and zip ties for a tidy install.
Panel Mount: USB + 12V + AC Outlet Panel
A flush-mount panel with USB-A, USB-C, a 12V cigarette lighter socket, and the inverter's AC outlet gives you one clean interface. Marine-grade outlet panels on Amazon work perfectly for this.
Battery Monitor (Optional)
A small volt/amp meter shows battery percentage, charge rate, and power draw in real time. The KKmoon or Bayite DC meter installs inline and costs under $15.
Build Steps
Choose and Prep Your Cart
Pick a rolling toolbox or cart that fits the battery (roughly 13×7×9 inches for a 100Ah LiFePO4), the inverter, and the charge controller with room for wiring. Remove drawers or shelves you don't need. Mark cutout locations for the outlet panel and any ventilation holes. The inverter generates some heat, so ensure airflow.
Mount the Battery and Inverter
Place the battery on the bottom of the cart — it's the heaviest component and keeps the center of gravity low. Secure it with a strap or bracket so it doesn't shift when rolling. Mount the inverter on an interior wall or shelf above the battery. Keep at least 2 inches of clearance around the inverter for cooling.
Install the Charge Controller
Mount the MPPT controller on the inside wall where you can see the display. Run the MC4 cables from the solar panel input port (drill a weatherproof grommet or use a panel-mount MC4 pass-through) to the controller's PV input. Connect the controller's battery output to the battery terminals using 10 AWG wire with an inline 30A fuse on the positive cable. Do NOT connect the panel yet.
Wire the Inverter
Connect the inverter's DC input to the battery using the short, heavy-gauge cables that come with most inverters. If it didn't come with cables, use 8 AWG or 6 AWG for the short run. Fuse the positive cable. Route the inverter's AC output to your flush-mount outlet panel.
Install the Outlet Panel
Cut the opening in the side or front of the cart. Mount the marine-grade outlet panel. Wire the USB outlets and 12V socket directly to the battery (through a fuse block). Wire the AC outlet to the inverter output. If you're adding a battery monitor, install it inline on the negative battery cable.
Connect the Solar Panel and Test
Plug the foldable solar panel's MC4 connectors into the pass-through port. The charge controller should light up and show incoming watts. Test every outlet: plug in a phone (USB), a 12V device, and a small appliance (AC). Check the battery monitor for voltage and charge rate. You're done — you just built a power station.
💡 Upgrade Ideas
- Second battery: Wire a second 100Ah LiFePO4 in parallel for 2,560Wh — more capacity than an EcoFlow DELTA Pro.
- Transfer switch: Add a small manual transfer switch to power a circuit in your house during outages.
- Wheels + handle upgrade: Pneumatic tires and a telescoping handle turn this into a true portable unit for camping and tailgating.
- Anderson connectors: Add Anderson PowerPole quick-disconnects for the solar input so you can swap between panels.
- Bluetooth battery monitor: A Victron SmartShunt gives you real-time state of charge on your phone.
How does this compare to pre-built?
See our head-to-head comparison of EcoFlow and Jackery power stations.
EcoFlow vs Jackery →