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Key takeaways
- There are three main ways to power home circuits from a station: a brand-specific smart home panel, a manual transfer switch, or a power inlet box paired with a panel interlock.
- Smart home panels offer the most automation, but they only work with specific compatible station models from the same brand.
- Manual transfer switches and inlet-plus-interlock setups work with a wider range of stations, as long as the station's output matches what your electrician designs.
- Every option here must be installed by a licensed electrician, often with a permit. Never backfeed through a wall outlet.
- Buy the hardware your electrician specifies. The picks below help you understand the options before that conversation.
The quick answer
If you own a compatible EcoFlow station and want automatic switchover with app control, the EcoFlow Smart Home Panel 2 is the most integrated option. If you use Anker SOLIX gear, Anker sells a manual transfer switch for its home backup setups. For most other stations, a standard manual transfer switch or a power inlet box plus a panel-specific interlock kit is the usual route.
In every case, the hardware is only half the job. A licensed electrician chooses the right configuration for your panel, your station's output and your local code, and installs it. This page helps you understand the options. For the concepts behind them, read how to connect a power station to your house.
This page covers power-station hardware. If you're connecting a gas generator, see the generator-specific picks at best generator transfer switch kits on our sister site PortableGenerators.co.
How the options compare
| Option | How it works (overview) | Works with | Automation | Typical tier |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brand smart home panel | Sub-panel that switches selected circuits to a compatible station | Specific models from one brand | Automatic, app control | $$$$ |
| Brand manual transfer switch | Switch for selected circuits, sold for a brand's backup setup | That brand's listed models, often others | Manual | $$$ |
| Standard manual transfer switch | Selected circuits switched between grid and backup | Most stations with a suitable output | Manual | $$–$$$ |
| Inlet box plus interlock | Outdoor or wall inlet feeds the panel, interlock prevents grid and backup at the same time | Most stations with a suitable output | Manual | $–$$ |
The "works with" column is the part people skip. A smart panel that doesn't list your station won't work with it, and a 120V-only station may not suit every inlet setup. Your electrician will match the hardware to your station's output.
The picks
EcoFlow Smart Home Panel 2
$$$$EcoFlow's Smart Home Panel 2 is a sub-panel that routes selected home circuits to compatible EcoFlow stations and, per EcoFlow, switches automatically when the grid fails. It adds app-based circuit monitoring and control. It's designed for EcoFlow's larger systems, so check the compatibility list on the current listing before you buy.
Why we like it
- Automatic switchover per the manufacturer
- Circuit-level monitoring in the app
- Works with gas generators too per EcoFlow
Keep in mind
- Only works with listed EcoFlow stations
- Top price tier and a larger install job
Anker SOLIX manual transfer switch
$$$Anker sells a manual transfer switch for its home backup setups, offered in versions for different numbers of circuits. It lets you move selected circuits to your SOLIX station during an outage. Check the current listing for which SOLIX models it supports and which circuit count fits your needs.
Why we like it
- Brand-matched with Anker's backup gear
- Multiple circuit-count options
- Simpler than a full smart panel
Keep in mind
- Manual switching, so someone must be home
- Confirm model compatibility first
Standard manual transfer switch (Reliance Controls line)
$$–$$$A pre-wired manual transfer switch lets an electrician connect a handful of essential circuits (fridge, furnace blower, lights, outlets) to a backup source. Reliance Controls is a long-standing name in this category. It works with power stations and generators, as long as the station's output matches the switch design your electrician picks.
Why we like it
- Works across brands
- Lets you pick specific essential circuits
- Long track record in the category
Keep in mind
- Manual switching
- Circuit count is fixed at purchase
Power inlet box (Reliance Controls or similar)
$An inlet box is the weatherproof socket on the outside of your house (or on a wall inside) where the backup source plugs in. It's one part of a complete setup, never a solution on its own. Your electrician will choose the inlet rating and style that matches your station and your panel.
Why we like it
- Clean, code-friendly connection point
- Keeps cords outside the living space
- Pairs with interlocks or transfer switches
Keep in mind
- Needs a matching interlock or transfer switch
- Rating must match your setup
Panel-specific interlock kit
$An interlock is a mechanical plate that physically prevents the main breaker and the backup breaker from being on at the same time. Interlocks are specific to the panel brand and model, so your electrician needs to identify your panel before ordering. Check local code, because acceptance varies.
Why we like it
- Usually the lowest-cost path
- Lets you choose circuits by flipping breakers
- No separate sub-panel
Keep in mind
- Must match your exact panel
- You manage loads manually to stay within the station's output
Power cord for station-to-inlet connection
$–$$The cord between your station and your inlet has to match both ends, with the right plug, receptacle and gauge. Many stations offer an RV-style or twist-lock output, others only standard outlets. Let your electrician specify the cord, and buy exactly that. Our extension cords and safe loads guide explains why gauge matters.
Why we like it
- Correct gauge reduces heat and voltage drop
- Twist-lock connectors resist pulling loose
- Length lets the station stay in a safe spot
Keep in mind
- Must match both station and inlet exactly
- Longer cords need heavier gauge
For the concepts behind home hookups, PortableGenerators.co explains how to connect a generator to your house. The principles are the same for power stations.
How to choose the right setup
Start with your station's output
The station decides much of the design. Check the current listing for:
- Voltage: most portable stations output 120V. Some larger systems can output 120/240V split phase, alone or when paired.
- Continuous watts: your circuits have to stay within this number, or the station will shut down.
- Output connector: standard outlets, a TT-30 RV outlet, or a twist-lock outlet.
Bring these details to your electrician. They'll tell you which options work with your station and your panel.
Decide how many circuits you need
Run a critical loads audit first. Most people land on a short list: refrigerator, furnace blower or boiler controls, a few lights, the router and a couple of outlets. That list decides whether a 6-circuit switch is enough, or whether an interlock that switches the whole panel makes more sense.
Manual or automatic?
Automatic switchover is convenient if you're often away or rely on continuous power for medical equipment. Manual switching costs less and works well if someone is usually home. For medical equipment, read our medical equipment backup guide and talk to your equipment supplier.
Plan for the size of the station
A 2kWh station behind a transfer switch doesn't make your house off-grid. It powers a few circuits for hours, not days. See best 2000Wh-class power stations for runtime math, or best home battery backup systems if you need more capacity.
Bluetti power stations
All-in-one LiFePO4 power stations with built-in inverter, charger and solar input. Compare current models and bundles on Bluetti's own store.
See Bluetti modelsRenogy components
Panels, MPPT charge controllers, DC-DC chargers and lithium batteries for custom builds. Check specs and current kits on Renogy's store.
Shop Renogy gearBluetti's larger stations and Renogy's component systems are both options for building out backup capacity behind an electrician-installed switch. Confirm the output voltage and connector with your electrician before buying either.
What an electrician will ask you
Save time by having answers ready:
- Your station's make, model, continuous watts, voltage and output connector.
- Your panel's brand and model (a photo of the panel label helps).
- The list of circuits you want powered.
- Where the station will sit during an outage, with ventilation and away from water.
- Whether you plan to add a gas generator later, since some hardware supports both.
Local rules often require a permit and inspection for this work. A licensed electrician will know what your jurisdiction requires.
Mistakes to avoid
- Backfeeding through an outlet. Never do this. It's dangerous to you and to utility workers.
- Buying a smart panel before confirming compatibility. Brand panels work only with listed models.
- Buying an interlock without knowing your panel. Interlocks are panel-specific.
- Oversizing expectations. A transfer switch doesn't add capacity. The station's Wh still limits runtime.
- Choosing circuits you can't support. A well pump or electric range may exceed what a station can run. Check the continuous and surge figures in inverter surge ratings.
- Skipping the dry run. After installation, test the switchover on a calm day using our load-testing checklist.
Frequently asked questions
Can I connect a power station to my house panel?
Yes, through a transfer switch, a brand smart home panel, or an inlet box with a panel interlock. A licensed electrician must install it, and local code may require a permit. Never backfeed through a wall outlet.
Does the EcoFlow Smart Home Panel 2 work with any power station?
No. It works with specific EcoFlow models listed by EcoFlow. Check the current compatibility list before you buy.
What's the difference between an interlock and a transfer switch?
An interlock is a plate that stops the main breaker and the backup breaker from being on together, and it lets you run any circuit in the panel. A transfer switch moves a fixed set of circuits between grid and backup. Your electrician can explain which suits your panel.
Will a 120V power station work with a transfer switch?
Often it can, depending on the switch and your circuits. Your electrician will check your station's output voltage, watts and connector against the design, and tell you which circuits it can support.
Is an inlet box enough on its own?
No. An inlet box is only the connection point. It must be paired with an interlock or transfer switch so the house can't be connected to the grid and the station at the same time.
How many circuits can a power station run through a transfer switch?
That depends on the station's continuous watts and capacity, not on the switch. Most people power a short list of essentials. Run a critical loads audit first.